Maintenance Check List
Before making an appointment for a maintenance call please refer to the following check lists. It could save you $$ for a call out fee.
The items below are NOT covered by warranty.
Security doors: Hinged
PROBLEM: Door won’t close/open.
- Make sure the door closer bracket in the correct position. This is design to hold the door open when moving furniture etc. It is a small round bracket & should be secured as close to the closer as possible.
- If the door is “banging” on the striker plates then they need to be lubricated. We recommend a silicone spray.
- If the door jamb has moved, this may make the security door to be too tight or jamb the locking mechanisms (this can happen in different weather conditions). The striker plates and/or hinges may then need to be “cut” into the jamb (if timber). The striker plates may need to be re aligned or, In the worst case, the door may need to be reduced in size to allow for jamb movement. The security door must be unlocked before closing.
PROBLEM: Door makes squeaking noise.
Lubricate hinges with silicone spray or wax. Place a “packer” behind the hinges on the timber door side. This will stop the painted hinges rubbing on the oil based paint causing noise.
Security doors: Sliding
PROBLEM: Door won’t close.
- Make sure all striker plates aligned correctly & lubricated.
- Are the brackets on the security door broken? This happens when the door is slammed, causing the cast aluminum to break. Make sure the door on the track correctly (top & bottom).
- Has the door been bent? This will cause miss alignment to the striker plates? The security door must be unlocked before closing. If there is a door closer, is must be filled with water (Inventco brand).
- Door jumps or runs rough when sliding. Tracks must be clear of debris & lubricated.Check wheels for debris, chips or wear & tear.
- The most common maintenance call on shower screens is perceived “leaking”. When we get a call out for a leaking shower screen, we hope that it is a silicone problem. Why? Because it’s a 5 minute job to fix however, of all call outs regarding “leaking shower screens” less than 5% are the result of errors in sealing. Around 90% are wet seal issues and the remainder, water escaping between gaps in glass & metal.
- Shower screens are a water barrier, not a water tight seal. Our sales team are trained to advise customers to expect water to escape through any gaps in the screen. If you get none or very little, then that’s a bonus. If you can see water coming through a silicone join then we can help. We can even assist if water is escaping through gaps in glass buy installing water deflectors (or seals) to the glass.
- If the water is coming through tiles, grout lines or underneath the shower door, then there is very little we can do.
- Setting up shower bases we recommend using an angle fixed & wet sealed into the floor where possible. The angle should be the same colour as the shower screen frame/fittings. It should be left protruding at least 5mm after tiling. The protruding section should be taped up before wet sealing & tiling so it can be left nice & clean at the end. This method will ensure no water passes under tiles or through grout lines to the exterior of the shower base. Tell your wet sealer or tiler to contact us for more information. We stock most angles required.
PROBLEM: Dropped Doors
Shower doors rarely “drop”. In most cases walls & floors move making the bottom of the door move closer to the sill. This is corrected by moving the frame further into the wall channel, packing underneath the pivot point or installing stainless steel washers underneath the pivot pin.